Craftsman Professional  3 hp 10'' Radial Arm Saw with LaserTrac ™ 22010

I have had this saw for a few years about 4 works good you just have to spend time setting it up and make sure you tighten the alien's on the lift tight as you fell they won't strip out the threads then it works perfect. Its got plenty of power. but keep in mind BLADE is the factor in this,use the right blade for the job your doing. I even cut non Ferris metal with mine. Rips cross cut angled beveled hard woods, hold a line and will cut straight even after changing setups. Make sure you square is good the product setup guide shows you how to do this, I had an old square that was real bad I didn't know just how bad until I did this test. Needless to say in the trash it went. This is what everyone used before we had miter saws, and they worked then and do today. This is also safer to use for crosscut then a table saw.

This is by far the worst shop saw I have ever owned or used. In 1978, I purchased a Craftsman 10? Radial Arm Saw and used it for 32 yrs. It was a very good saw, accurate and always held its alignments,this new saw (Model 22010), will not. The alignment must be readjusted every time the saw arm is bumped, moved or the cut angle changed. Sears sent a tech, under warranty, to repair the saw but the parts he needed are no longer available and no longer stocked by Sears. This saw has been misrepresented by Sears Craftsman ? The owner?s manual said I would get years of service out of this saw, it was deficient out of the box and couldn't make a year. It came with a one year repair warranty that Sears cannot honor because critical repair parts are no longer available for my less than a year old saw. Sears says no refund and no repair but I can trade for an identical saw with the same inherent problems. If you want a quality shop saw to build cabinets and/or furniture, look at somthing else.

A tool that draws 13A at 110V can only be a 1.9 HP tool [much like my 25-yr old Craftsman table saw].

Not sure it should be called Professional, but it is a good saw. It does require a bit of tweaking but it isn't too difficult and the instructions are pretty clear. It isn't Industrial grade but the price doesn't reflect that either. I have used it for home-type projects and it works fine for me.

Love this saw, very easy to change the saws angle for cutting miters. And I really love the cutting control so you can only pull the saw out so fast and that speed is adjustable and the saw will not come at you with this control unit.

Great radial saw can't stop using it. Makes jobs easierp

I have had this saw since new and its been a major disappointment. But the biggest problem is that the play between the column and column support is about 1/2 - 3/4  inch. This play is impossible to tighten up, as soon as the play is partially removed it binds the cloumn. The fact is thier is so much play that it cant be brought to an acceptable tolerance. The laser sight quit after about 2 months. The support base for the saw is really made cheaply it flexs excessively. The best advise I could offer about this saw is to save your money and buy either a new Delta rs830 or a good used one for around $300-400 or a used Dewalt

I have not used it yet but spent 12 hours putting it together and making adjustments. I know it will do it all with lumber and the better fine tuned the adjustments, the better the saw will cut lumber. This saw will make a big job a lot smaller in a hurry. Right now it's in my living room waiting for the rainy season to end. Some reviews say there is nothing in the instructions about squaring the table but there is. The saw is squared to the table rather than table to saw. I think the control cut will have to be removed since it's a big problem with ripping. I don't like the 2 cables sticking out and I don't like the power swithches. The finger switch is for the control cut and it would be better to have the main power on that switch. As it is with a seperate main power switch, it would be hard to turn this saw off if you had to in a hurry. Seems like they created more of a safety hazard by putting control cut on the saw. I also wish the saw could be taken apart in sections so it would be easier to move it. I tried to lift the saw out of the column and it wouldn't come out so that means I'll have to take part of the stand apart to move it. It's best to do each step of the alignment at least 3 times to get it fine tuned. The saw will do the job but it could be better. I removed the blade guards since they can be as much of a hazard as a safety feature. The rip anti kickback guide is cheap and won't align very good. There is no problem with the stand and if all the bolts are tightened, it's sturdy. I suggest sawing off the the sharp corners of the table and rounding them so you don't bump into them. The laser is not much use for anything. It's better to use a pencil mark. If you adjust the saw to cut square, it will do it without a laser. Not much use for the rip guage or any of the measurement stuff on the saw. Nobody would use them anyway. I use a tape measure to get it exact and place the blade according to the mark on the wood or against the tape measure. This and many other Craftsman tools could easily be made in the USA but they are not.