New Day Your Way

Color to Dye For

How many times have you colored your hair with an at-home kit, and it looked nothing like the shade the woman had on the box? Sure it's cheaper to do your color yourself, rather than going to a salon-but make a big mistake and you're booking a very pricey correctional appointment. Here are some of the more common blunders, and easy ways to avoid them so you don't end up paying the big bucks.

Mistake 1

"That red looked great on my neighbor-why did it make me look like a clown?"

How to Avoid It

When choosing your color, be reasonable about what hue your hair should be. Avoid trying colors that are too different than your own, says Nelson Chan, Hollywood colorist who has worked on shows from Buffy the Vampire Slayer to The King of Queens. You may have always dreamed of becoming a blonde, but going there from a head full of dark strands may not be the wisest choice when doing it on your own.

Always go by the "two shades" rule: don't go more than either two shades lighter or two shades darker than your natural hair color. The risk you take when you go any further than that could end in disaster. "And always follow the directions on the box," warns Chan-there is a reason they are so detailed. If you leave it on for too long or not long enough, the color on your head may not jive with the one on the box. Need inspiration? The colors for the season, says Chan, are shades of blonde and brown with light highlights. But, remember, if you choose to follow the trends, the "two shades" rule still applies.

Mistake 2

"I wanted jet black hair for a party, expecting it to fade out a few weeks later, but it hasn't, and now I have light roots to boot!"

How to Avoid It

Once you've selected a color, make sure to read the big and the fine print-there are many options from permanent, to semi-permanent, to highlights-and they're all on the box.

Semi-color contains no ammonia, therefore this product will only deposit color-it won't lighten hair. In fact, it can only alter hair color by about two shades, which is just what you want; but it can't completely cover large amounts of gray. Permanent tint, on the other hand, contains ammonia, which means it will lighten hair and is also more effective at covering gray. Caveat: be careful with those permanent colors, they are just that, and much harder to correct should you not like, let's say, being a strawberry blonde. Highlights are great for adding "dimension", texture and movement without changing your color completely. Nelson Chan sums it up: "If you're interested in shiny hair, go for a semi-color. If you want a summer beach look, then highlights are a better choice."

Mistake 3

"I went by the "two shades" rule but the color was still all wrong for me. I hate it!"

How to Avoid It

Even after you've chosen your color and formula, any colorist will warn you to make sure you try the color out on a small section of hair first. Even if you stay with the two shades lighter rule, you never know how your hair will react to certain chemicals. Take a very small section of your hair (but don't remove it from your head, advises Chan) on the side of your head by your ear, so you can see what you're doing, and try a bit of the color on it. If you hate it, it's only a small piece that no one sees, and you'll be glad to know you didn't do a full head. Have questions? There's always a number on the box to call-the reps are there for a reason: they know their stuff.

Mistake 4

Forgoing maintenance. "I did everything the box told me to do, the color came out great, but just a few days later it looks off and dull."

How to Avoid It

To ensure a job well done and to sustain the color you chose, stay away from harsh shampoo, strong protein-base conditioners or treatments, and products that contain a lot of silicone or wax. "These products will build up on hair," explains Chan. "Harsh shampoo strips and roughs up cuticle layers, and if the protein is too strong it will affect how color holds on, and end up compromising your color, making it uneven." To refresh the color, make sure to do a hair gloss once a week.