New Day Your Way

Know Your Skincare Ingredients

Just as you do when you're buying food, you must read the labels when choosing skincare products, too. "It's important to identify the foundational performance ingredients that are often acknowledged for their anti-aging, as well as overall health benefits for you skin," says Robert Scott, Los Angeles-based celebrity aesthetician. Even though many identical ingredients appear in a whole variety of skincare products in varying degrees, you should consider their combined effect when buying. For instance, says Scott, "think about how the performance of each product will vary depending on how long

the active ingredient is in contact with your skin. A cleanser, for example, resides on the face for a short period of time, while a moisturizer resides longer."

The Goal: Exfoliation Combined with Anti-Aging

Look for: AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) are excellent exfoliators that work on the skin by speeding up the cell renewal process. They have an anti-aging effect, leaving the skin smooth and soft to the touch.

As a leading esthetician, Robert Scott, director of Robert Scott Face and Body modern apothecary and treatment center, has a special interest in new techniques and technologies.

The Goal: Controlling Oily Skin

Look for: BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids), which are known for surface exfoliation as well as control of oil production. This ingredient works well if you have oily or acneic skin due to its ability to eliminate those stubborn blackheads!

The Goal: General Skin Health and Anti-Aging

Look for: Vitamins A, C and E, which are all essential for their anti-oxidant properties. "Think about how metal rusts when it oxidizes," explains Scott. "This is what happens to our skin, except that it becomes wrinkled, dry and leathery." These three vitamins help restore cellular health, giving a rejuvenated and refreshed appearance.

The Goal: to Look Younger

Look for: Products that contain amino peptides-these are the latest in anti-aging technology, says Scott. Peptides have been clinically proven to smooth fine lines and wrinkles, and work to reduce the appearance of age spots.

The Goal: to Battle Blemishes

Look for: Cleansers and moisturizers with salicylic acid, or an antibacterial agent such as triclosan. These help the skin shed the coarse outer layer of dead skin cells, preventing clogged pores that can lead to breakouts, says Mary Begovic Johnson, M.S., Principal Scientist, Beauty Care, Proctor & Gamble. Noxema make a cleanser containing triclosan, and Olay have an effective cleanser and moisturizer that contain salicylic acid to fight blemishes, and niacinimide to smooth wrinkles.

The Goal: to Even Out Skin Tone and Texture

Look for: Exfoliators, with ingredients such as derma-crystals or microbeads, says Johnson. Be gentle-the skin on your face is delicate, so go easy on the scrubbing: practice light patting and circling.

The Goal: Deep Rehydration

Look for: Glycerin, emollients and humectants, to help bind water molecules to the skin and strengthen its moisture barrier. In addition, certain oils such as olive, jojoba and palm oil are natural substances that go a long way to helping the skin retain moisture, explains Johnson.

What to Toss and What to Keep

"Although expired products are generally harmless," says Johnson, "they may cause irritation to more sensitive skin types, and they'll almost certainly be less effective than newer products."

Her quick checklist:

If you notice any variation in the smell, color or consistency, it's a sure sign that it's time to pitch the product and invest in something new.
Many products are designed to last for one to three years if stored properly. There's no federal requirement for expiration dates, so this time frame is only a rule of thumb; but products stored at extreme temperatures will lose their effectiveness much faster.
Be especially mindful of products containing SPF, and natural products that lack the preservatives needed to ward off bacterial growth. Both should be discarded in accordance with the expiration date printed. If you have a product you're unsure about, call the manufacturer's (800) number on the back of the package and ask for expiration details.

Expiration Guide

Styling Products:
Most dermatologists and estheticians recommend disposing of products after six months-or a year at the very most.

Mascara, Eyeliner, Eye Shadow, and Lipstick:
For sanitary reasons-because they are in contact with eyes and mouth-dispose after three to four months. Never try to extend the life of dried-up mascara by adding water or, even worse, saliva: this will contaminate the product with bacteria.

Foundation or Tinted Moisturizer:
Throw away makeup if the color changes or an odor develops-preservatives degrade over time and may no longer be able to prevent bacteria.

Skincare:
Esthetician Robert Scott advises that a good rule of thumb is to discard skin care creams once they have been open six months-or a year at the very most. Most packaging contains an illustration of a jar with either the number 6 or 12 on it: this indicates the shelf life of the product after opening it.