Question

I have Sears Kenmore Elite French Door Refrigerator ( model # 795.78764.800) 2008. Without any warning the ice maker stopped making ice cubes nor is it dispensing water when requested. The water supply valve is open. What is the problem?

Answers

17 answers

  1. Saefern1, I am sorry about the water problem on your refrigerator. I am jumping into the middle of an ongoing problem and I assume having a technician check the problem is not the first option. From what I have read I believe the main board is where the problem is. There is a separate water valve for the ice maker and one for dispensing water. I would not expect both valves to fail at the same time. The ice maker valve is feed voltage through the ice maker control board on a white and red wire. The dispenser valve is fed voltage from the dispenswer control board. I would not expect two separate control boards to fail at the same time. The common part to all is the main control board. Checking voltage with the newer tiny connections can be difficult. Small micro leads are usually required on the probes when checking voltage. The main control EBR41956402 is available at a decent price at the following site: SEARS PARTS Direct.

  2. Hi Saefern1,

    We appreciate you reaching out in the MySears Community!

    Thank you for providing make and model number for this will be most helpful to our Sears Appliance Experts in providing a few troubleshooting tips.

    Your inquiry has been escalated and once one of our Experts responds we will be reaching out via email to direct you back for contact.

    Thank you!

    1. In response to SHC-WendyFD-2

      Thanks for the question about your refrigerator model 795.78764…, I will be glad to assist you.
      Based on your description of the ice maker not producing and no water through the door here are a couple things to check. First, there is a tank (tubing coil) located in the fresh food door under the ice maker behind the lowest bin left door. If that tubing has frozen it will stop water flow. You can thaw this by applying warm air from a hair dryer. Next check you filter, if it has not been changed in a while try changing it out and test. Also be sure the water supply is actually getting to the water inlet valve, although the supply is on there could be blocked line supplying water to the valve, and last yes the water inlet valve could be the issue. The inlet valve is on the back of the refrigerator and is where you home water supply connects to the unit.
      If you are unable to determine the exact cause here is a number for service, 1-800-469-4663.

      Ron H.

    2. In response to SHC-WendyFD-2

      Ron: I did as you instructed: 1. checked the tubing coil in the door panel, It did not appear to be frozen but all the same I applied a hair dryer for 5 or more minutes.
      2. I installed a new water filter @ $50 cost.
      3. I checked the water inlet valve at the rear of the frig. and all connections are tight and not leaking.

      Despite the above the problem persists. There is no water coming from the dispenser and no water ito the ice maker. Also the green lite on the ice maker is not lit even though the switch is ON. Could the problem be with the inlet valve? You did not give any instructions for testing that part. Thanks in advance.

    3. In response to SHC-WendyFD-2

      Thanks for your reply, to test the valve first access the valve, with door closed check for 115 v ac to the blue and red wires on the solenoid. If you have proper voltage and no water flow the dispenser section of the valve is bad. This will apply only if you are certain that your home water supply is 20 to 100 PSI to the valve. If you are getting no voltage the main board and wiring will need inspecting, and again a technician is recommended.

      Thanks
      Ron H.

    4. In response to SHC-WendyFD-2

      Ron: I checked the voltage at the water inlet valve with the frig pugged in and operating with doors closed. There is a blue female double connector with incoming Blue and Red and black wires all coming from the solenoid attached to the water inlet; and the voltage reading across the two plugs is zero. I re-tested this numerous times because it was impossible to get the probe tips of my multi-meter into the very small openings of the connector plug; so I rigged some 18 gauge wire leads which I inserted firmly into the connector and read the other ends with the meter — always with the same result: zero volts. There is also a red double female connector with incoming blue and purple and black wires also coming from the solenoid; and the voltage reading across those two plugs is also zero. I disconnected the water inlet hose from the valve and confirmed that the incoming water pressure is strong.

      In your last email you said if there is not 115 volts, then we need a technician to “inspect the main board and wiring”. Please explain what you are referring to and where this main board is located. Is there something I can check, possibly for a loose wire or something obvious, before calling in a tech? Thank you.

    5. In response to SHC-WendyFD-2

      Ron is on vacation, so I will assist you with this water problem. I see you have made the checks that Ron as instructed. This can be a complicated and difficult refrigerator to service even for technicians. The control board on this model is located behind the cabinet. At this stage I strongly recommend having a technician check and make this repair. However, a couple of more checks you can make will be to disconnect the power and remove the cover to the control board behind the unit. Now, locate connections # 2 and # 3. Check for a loose wire connection on these 2 harness connections. If the wires seem ok, try disconnecting the harness connections and then reconnecting them. Sometimes this will help make a better connection. Now, try reconnecting the power and activate the dispenser. If there is still no water flow, a technician will be required. You can call 1-800-469-4663 to schedule a tech to come out.

    6. In response to SHC-WendyFD-2

      Please explain (1) What do you mean by the 'control board located behind the cabinet'. Are you referring to the large metal cover plate at the bottom of the rear of the machine which also covers the water inlet valve, the cooling fan and coils ? I don't remember seeing anything there that looked like a control board. (2) What do you mean by 'connections #2 and #3'? Are you referring to the red and blue wire harnesses coming from the water inlet valve that I discussed earlier? When I examined them before I did disconnect and reconnect these harnesses from the place where they plug into, but there was no improvement in water flow.

    7. In response to SHC-WendyFD-2

      I'm sorry for the confusion. On this model, there will be another panel behind the fridge that is higher up on the cabinet, then the lower panel, which covers the water valve, compressor and coils. The control board will be located behind this cover. Be sure to disconnect the power before removing this cover. The connections #2 and #3 listed above will be on this control board.

    8. In response to SHC-WendyFD-2

      On the control panel there are connection points marked CON 1, CON 2 and CON 3. On the wire harnesses plugged into these locations, all the wires are clean and tight. The CON 2 connection has 3 incoming wires from the harness, one of which is Yellow and enters the contact port marked Ice maker. The CON 3 connection has 5 incoming wires from its harness, one of which is Red and enters the port marked I/maker P/V. These wires are all tight. I removed and reconnected each harness several times, but there is no improvement in the operation of the ice maker or the cold water dispenser.

      You didn't say anything about testing these wires. Would it help if I checked these harness wires or panel connectors for a specific voltage?

    9. In response to SHC-WendyFD-2

      Although you haven't yet responded to my last post, I have a further question: Could it be that the water inlet valve is malfunctioning and needs to be replaced? If YES, it is possible it can it be covered under our purchase warranty, although the frig is probably 3 or 4 years old at this point? If not warrantied, can I purchase this part and install it myself?

    10. In response to SHC-WendyFD-2

      Hi Saefern1!

      Your inquiry on 1/25 had been answered by our Expert FredM towards the top of the page.

      I am forwarding this inquiry to our Experts for further assistance for you.

      Thank you for reaching out!

    11. In response to SHC-WendyFD-2

      The water inlet valve can fail but there is one solenoid for the ice maker and one for the water dispenswer. I do not expect both would fail at the same time. The EBR41956402 main control is likely the problem. The main control can be obtained from the following link: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/EBR41956402/0046/795&pathTaken=partSearch&blt=14&prst=0&shdPart=EBR41956402 .

    12. In response to SHC-WendyFD-2

      I have read both your responses on 1/26 and 2/02. You suggest that the main control board needs replacing.

      1. I checked Sears Parts and this "power control board " costs $110 plus shipping. Is there a possibility that this part could be covered under warranty? I believe the frig is about 4-5 years old. The model # has the numbers 2008 at the end, so I'm guessing maybe that shows its age.

      2. Is replacing this board something that I can do myself, as a fairly competent homeowner and amateur electrician -- or would I be foolish to try that? Does the old board simply pull out and the new board plug in -- or is it more complicated than that?

    13. In response to SHC-WendyFD-2

      The control board warranty has expired. Replacing the board is not difficult. First, be sure to disconnect the power to the unit. Make sure to note the connections on the board before removing it. I would recommend taking a picture first. Some boards are only held in place with tabs and some will have screws holding them in place. When you have access to the control, you will be able to see if it has tabs or screws holding it in place. I hope this will help you.

    14. In response to SHC-WendyFD-2

      I understand what you are saying about how the board is fixed or mounted inside the control panel compartment. But my question was really about the many electrical connections to the board itself. As I have not looked at it since before my message on 1/25, I don't recall much about those connections. Are those connections all with snap-on or plug-in connectors like the several wire harnesses that I inspected earlier?

      Finally, do you really believe my water flow problem to the ice maker and cold water dispenser will be solved with a new main control panel, and that I should go in that direction without any further electrical tests on the existing control panels? I could purchase a voltage tester with much smaller probes, or possibly just smaller probes for my current multi-meter.

    15. In response to SHC-WendyFD-2

      The dispenswer control board has 4 connectors. On con2 there is a purple PR wire on the end of the connector. On Con 3 there is a whire wire on pin 3. Between these two wires should be 120 volts when the water dispenswer switch is pressed. The ice maker control board has 6 connections. On Con6 there is a yellow wire. On con2 there is a blue, BL wire. When the ice maker calls for voltage there should be 120 volts across the yellow and blue wire.